Ever try to check your credit score and immediately feel like you just opened a door you weren’t ready for? You’re not alone. When it comes time to buy your first house, that little number seems to carry a lot of weight—and it actually does. If you’re wondering what credit score you really need to buy a house, you’re asking the most important question first-time buyers face.
Here’s the bottom line: Most mortgage lenders want to see at least a 620 on your credit report. That’s the cutoff for conventional loans—nothing fancy, not too strict, but not a cakewalk either. If you’re gunning for a lower down payment or special programs like FHA loans, you can technically squeak by with a score as low as 580. But here’s the twist—the higher your score, the less you’ll pay in interest over the life of your loan. Those extra points can literally save you tens of thousands of dollars.
Lenders don’t give out home loans just because you say you’re good for it. They want proof, and your credit score is pretty much your financial report card. It shows how you’ve handled borrowing money over the years—whether you pay bills on time, rack up debt, or open new credit cards like free samples.
Your credit score doesn’t just decide if you get a mortgage. It also determines your interest rate, the kind of loan you qualify for, and how much you’ll need for a down payment. A higher score usually means better terms and much less stress in the process. Think of it like showing up to a job interview with a glowing reference versus no reference at all.
Here’s what lenders are checking for:
Check out how your score category can shake out for home loan approvals and interest rates:
Score Range | Loan Approval Odds | Average Mortgage Rate (June 2025) |
---|---|---|
760+ | Excellent | 6.25% |
700-759 | Very Good | 6.45% |
620-699 | Fair/Acceptable | 6.95% |
580-619 | Risky | 7.7% (FHA Only) |
Below 580 | Unlikely | Rare Approval |
Every 20 points on your score can move your mortgage rate up or down, which might not sound like much until you do the math on a $300,000 loan. Even a half-percent difference can mean saving or losing a few hundred bucks a month. That’s why your score matters so much when you start home shopping.
Not all home loans are created equal. Different mortgage types have different rules when it comes to your credit score, and the gap between just getting approved and getting a great deal can be huge.
Check out how these loan types stack up for first-time buyers like you:
Mortgage Type | Minimum Credit Score | Typical Down Payment | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Conventional | 620 | 3% - 5% | Best rates need 740+ score |
FHA (Federal Housing Administration) | 580 (with 3.5% down) | 3.5% | 500-579 accepted with 10% down |
VA (Veterans Affairs) | Most lenders want 620 | 0% | Only for eligible veterans |
USDA (Rural programs) | 640 | 0% | For qualified rural buyers |
Here’s what all those numbers mean. A credit score around 620 usually puts you in the game for a basic home loan, but not at the best terms. Conventional loans give you more options, but lenders get picky fast below 680. FHA loans are built for first-timers and folks getting back on their feet, letting you qualify with scores as low as 580 (though there’s more paperwork and you’ll pay mortgage insurance).
VA loans are a sweet deal if you’ve served in the military—zero down and more forgiving credit rules, but most lenders still want to see at least a 620. USDA loans are targeted at buyers outside big cities, and that 640 mark is pretty firm if you want automated approval.
If your score’s below 580, you probably can’t buy with a small down payment. And while some lenders might ‘flex’ a few points for certain applicants, most stick pretty close to these cutoffs. So, if your score is just under one of these thresholds, it’s a smart move to work on bumping it up before you apply.
If you thought your credit score just decides whether you get the loan or not, there’s more to it. That number actually drives the whole negotiation—interest rates, monthly payments, fees, and what kind of credit score you need for the best deal. Even a difference of 20-30 points can mean paying way more or way less over time.
Banks and mortgage lenders use score ranges to set your terms. Usually, the higher you score, the less you pay—simple as that. You could have two people getting the same $350,000 loan, but if their scores are miles apart, their monthly payments and long-term costs look completely different.
Here’s how it plays out numbers-wise for a typical 30-year fixed mortgage. Notice how the rate and payment really drop as your credit score climbs:
Credit Score Range | Interest Rate (Est.) | Monthly Payment | Total Interest Paid |
---|---|---|---|
760-850 | 6.2% | $2,142 | $422,931 |
700-759 | 6.4% | $2,196 | $440,489 |
660-699 | 6.8% | $2,295 | $474,201 |
620-659 | 7.4% | $2,427 | $523,579 |
That’s more than $100,000 difference in total interest between the top and bottom score ranges for the same loan amount. Lenders want to see a solid history of paying bills on time. If you’ve missed payments, maxed out cards, or just have a really short credit history, they’ll either bump up your rate or add private mortgage insurance (PMI) to cover their risk. That’s extra money out of your pocket every single month.
Have a bigger down payment? Sometimes that helps offset a lower score, but not always. In today’s market, with high housing prices and interest rates ticking around 6% to 7%, even a small bump in your score makes a noticeable dent in your monthly payment. That’s why folks usually try to boost their numbers before getting serious about house hunting.
If your credit score isn’t where lenders want it, don’t hit the panic button. You’ve still got options, and it’s not the end of your home-buying story. Lenders see you as a bigger risk when your score drops below 620, but that doesn’t mean you have to give up. Some government-backed loan programs, like FHA loans, can go as low as 580—even 500 if you’ve got a 10% down payment ready.
But let’s keep it real: the lower your score, the more you’ll fork over in interest and fees. A lower score might also stick you with a bigger down payment and could limit your choices for lenders. Here’s a breakdown to make sense of your options:
Loan Type | Minimum Credit Score | Key Details |
---|---|---|
Conventional | 620 | Best rates if you go higher; won’t work with bad credit |
FHA | 580 (3.5% down), 500 (10% down) | Popular with first-timers; flexible but pricier insurance |
VA | No set minimum by VA, but most lenders want 620 | For eligible veterans; often needs solid history |
USDA | 640 | For rural areas; strict on income and property |
If you’re just below a key score, don’t rush. Waiting a few months to improve your score can save you thousands. Focus on quick wins:
Borrowers with credit scores closer to 700 get way better deals. A bump of just 20 or 30 points can mean a lower interest rate and smaller monthly payments. So if your number’s low, grab those quick wins before you pull the trigger on that loan application.
You don’t need to wait years for a better credit score. A few targeted changes can make a serious difference in a matter of months. Lenders typically update their info every 30 days, so your efforts show up pretty quickly. Here are some moves that actually work:
If you want to see what kind of jump you could get, here’s some real data:
Action | Average Score Increase* | Time Frame |
---|---|---|
Pay card balances below 30% | 20-60 points | 1-2 months |
Remove errors | 10-40 points | 1-3 months |
Never miss a payment | Up to 100 points (over time) | 6-12 months or more |
*Based on data from Experian and MyFICO.
“Your payment history accounts for 35% of your FICO Score, making it the single biggest factor in your credit profile,” says Experian, one of the three major credit bureaus.
Another trick: if you’re close to a major score threshold, like 620 or 700, a small jump can unlock way better mortgage rates. Check where you stand before applying so you don’t leave any savings on the table.
Write a comment